updated Aug 2004
Editors Note: Sergio Peñuelas closed his backyard operation and opened Checo’s Seafood, a brick-and-mortar on Imperial Hwy in Inglewood.
The late Jonathan Gold passed away a couple of years ago, but his indelible presence in the food community is still felt. When he was alive, I asked him for advice on mariscos, and he suggested that I try Pescado Zarandeado at Coni Seafood. There, I met Chef Sergio Peñuelas, and I have since followed Peñuelas to other restaurants. He is presently the owner and chef at 106 Seafood Underground.
As an LA Times food critic, Jonathan Gold wrote an article titled “Jonathan Gold follows the ‘Snook Whisperer’ legend to four restaurants.” In that article, he talks about the Pacific fish, snook, and how Peñuelas prepares and serves it. Gold also discusses the cult following of Peñuelas and how fans leveraged social media to locate him.
Peñuelas operates 106 Seafood Underground from his home in Lennox. As of January 2019, California allows home cooks to prepare and sell meals out of their homes. California became the first state to legalize home cooking, but similar laws in other states are already in the works. The new law builds on the 2012 California Homemade Food Act, which allows people to sell prepared, low-risk foods created at home.
The last time I enjoyed Peñuelas’ food, he was cooking at Cheko El Rey Del Sarandeado in Long Beach. He quickly disappeared and I found him via his personal Instagram account at 106 Seafood Underground. If you try searching for it, you won’t find a website. It wasn’t until Jan 2020, that he appeared on Yelp. That’s because he operates out of his backyard in Lennox.
When you approach his home at 4302 W 106th Street, you won’t find any evidence of a restaurant nearby. Those in the know walk into the backyard. Street parking is limited, and I’ve sometimes found myself parking on Hawthorne Blvd.
Set up in front of Peñuelas’ garage is Brandinitini Bartending, a mobile bartender. Palomas, Vampiros, and Micheladas made with either vodka or tequila are available for sale. Brandinitini Bartending also sells margarita and michelada party dips as well as chili candies.
Entering the backyard, you’ll quickly notice a large wood shack. Latin dance music typically plays. Business has picked up as Peñuelas is working with an assistant chef. Fortunately, the shack roomy enough for both, food prep, and a range. In the rear, he has a grill set up to prepare Pescado Zarandeado.
Despite his small operation, the menu is fairly large and it closely mirrors Coni Seafood. Ceviche, aguachile, and camarones (shrimp) dishes are selectable items. Of course, Peñuelas’ signature Pescado Zarandeado is available and his title of the “Snook Whisperer” is still deserved. Even the presentation of his dishes is the same as it was when he was at Coni Seafood.
Besides his signature dish, Pescado Zarandeado, Peñuelas excels with numerous camarón (shrimp) and ceviche dishes. Examples of his camarón offerings include Borracho de Camaron, Mojo de Ajo con Pimienta, Salsa Macha, and Camarones a la Diabla. His ceviche dishes are far-ranging, from fresh apple slices to a black sauce, to a spicy red sauce.
Don’t be frustrated about the parking. The food is worth it!
106 Seafood Underground, 4302 W. 106th Street, Lennox, CA 90304; 310.980.3893
Instagram: @checochef
Dean Robinson says
Hi Bryan,
Leave it to you to find good food in out of the way places. How fun! All the photos of the food look so deliciously inviting. This place looks like a really great find for good food. Keep up the great reviews! Dean