I enjoy attending live events, and for our anniversary, my wife surprised me with tickets to a play at the Segerstrom Center for the Arts in Costa Mesa. She also included a gift certificate for Vaca, a Spanish restaurant steps from the theater, to enhance our evening.
Amar Santana, a former Top Chef contestant, co-owns Vaca. This Michelin-select restaurant offers a modern interpretation of Spanish cuisine inspired by Andalusia, Seville, Madrid, Barcelona, and the Basque regions. Santana worked under renowned chef Charlie Palmer for a decade and most recently opened Broadway by Amar Santana.
The bar is striking and inviting, a great place to mingle. Because the space is smaller, seats are at a premium, so don’t plan on ordering many plates. If you’re not sure what you want to order, you can watch the plates fly out of the partially open kitchen if you’re sitting in the main indoor area. Outdoor patio seating is available, but beware, the outdoor heaters aren’t that effective.
Spanish paella, steaks, and tapas are the theme here. Walking to your table, you can ogle the prime steaks: Wanderer, Wagyu, Angus, or the 50+-day-aged house specialty in the floor-to-ceiling glass case. Steaks and paella take 45 minutes on busy nights; allot enough time to enjoy them.
Vaca proudly offers cocktails, including the Vaca Tonic, its signature frozen gin gimlet topped with basil blossoms. The basil fragrance adds to the overall experience. If you’re ordering tapas, consider their Vermut de Grifo (vermouth on tap), a popular Spanish aperitif served in Madrid and Barcelona.
Pan con tomate ($12, bread with tomato) is a Spanish bruschetta deconstructed with toasted bread, garlic oil, and crushed tomatoes. It reminded me that some of the simplest dishes can be delicious.
The bikini sandwich ($16) is not a gimmick; it is named after a Barcelona nightclub, La Sala Bikini. Vaca prepares panini-style using paleta Iberica, a sweet and nutty ham, manchego, and truffles; it’s one of their most popular items.
I did enjoy the Erizo con Huevos ($28). Umami fans will enjoy the miso-buttered toast paired with the uni and scrambled eggs. Another of my favorites was the Panza de Cerdo ($17), glazed with sherry in a smoked soy vinaigrette sauce. I felt the Gambas al Ajillo ($30 garlic shrimp) was overpriced.
We paired Bodegas Muriel Gran Reserva 2015 with our tapas. The tempranillo blend was full-bodied, with notes of black cherry and spice.
Food allergy? Please note that their menu features many items with nuts, including the El Rey Cocktail.
If you’re attending an event at the Segerstrom, make a reservation at Vaca early enough to enjoy the experience. My nit: the tables are so close that people on both sides of you will hear your conversation.
Vaca Restaurant, 695 Town Center Dr, Costa Mesa; vacarestaurant.com
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