Chef / Owner David Kuo named his restaurant “Little Fatty” because that was what he called a little boy. His humor was evident from the beginning with his first restaurant, Status Kuo. He also opened Skinny Dave, a sandwich shop in Westchester. His latest project is Fatty Mart, part specialty food mart, restaurant, and community space.
Walking past Fatty Mart, you may not realize it is a food mart. The carrot orange storefront is an open-air community space with tables and chairs. However, you’ll quickly realize it is a grocery store after you enter, with medium-height shelving lined with canned goods, specialty sauces, snacks, and fresh bread.
Perusing the aisles can be a rewarding experience if you experiment in the kitchen. Asian pantry staples include oyster sauce, fish sauce, rice wine, black bean sauce, hot sauces, and mirin, but some are gourmet versions such as sweet or black bean soy sauces. They also have an interesting variety of Southeast Asian flavors of Lays potato chips and Kit Kat chocolates.
Burrito La Palma’s burrito de res was one of Jonathan Gold’s favorites, and Kuo partnered with them to provide their burritos, which are available in the freezer section. In addition, they offer tortilla chips by La Princesita, Mejorado, and grain-free blue corn chips from Siete Family Foods. Burrito La Palma also owns and operates Mejorado and produces handmade Zacatecas-style flour tortillas.
The main draw to the mart is the coffee bar and kitchen. They prepare pizzas, sandwiches, Korean plate lunches, and specialty items, which change daily and weekly. Classic pizzas include cheese, pepperoni, and veggies. More inviting to me were the mapo tofu, mole negro, and birria pizzas. Pizzas are available by the slice ($5-7) or whole ($25-30).
Kuo collaborated with “dough guru” Noel Brohner of Slow Rise Pizza to create a light, crispy, chewy Neo-NY crust. The mapo tofu wasn’t quite what I expected because it lacked sauce, and the flavor was subtle; the fried shallots and fresh cilantro were more pronounced. On the other hand, the mole negro was tastier with the chicken, black mole sauce, cabbage, and crema.
Fatty Mart also features a “Breakfast All-Day” menu with bacon, egg, and cheese on brioche or a breakfast burrito with protein choices such as birria or chinese sausage. The most popular is the Taiwanese Breakfast Roll with chinese sausage, eggs, slivered cucumbers, and spicy mayo. The scallion pancake makes for a flavorful, crisp alternative to a tortilla.
Their non-alcoholic beverage selection is impressive, featuring common brands like Calpico, Jarritos, and Topo Chico, and even CBD-infused sparkling water from Vybes and DayTrip. A limited selection of wine and beer is available, and you can enjoy the beverage with your meal on the front patio.
The semi-enclosed patio is quite pleasant, with exposed wood beams and a colorful stylized Tiger mural running the entire length of the wall. Despite facing the street, the space is surprisingly quiet and suitable for meaningful conversations.
Kuo realizes that to be successful as a neighborhood shop, he needs feedback. On the counter is a sign with a QR code that reads: “Tell us what you’d like to see. Message us. We’re enlisting the community to help stock the shelves with items you need and want to see.” A business with an owner who cares about his customers achieves loyal and satisfied customers.
Fatty Mart is open daily from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Fatty Mart, 12210 Venice Blvd., LA, 90066; fattymart.com
Nice review. I saw myself with Kari in the background. I saw David Kuo’s IG post about installing large screen TVs so people can get pizza ad drinks during game times.