Ethnic enclaves exist in many US cities primarily because they become a cultural oasis. Because LA is home to many immigrants, LA has quite a few ethnic neighborhoods. One of them is the Cambodian community in Long Beach. When owners Hak Lonh and Jane Oh decided on a location for Gamboge, they decided to buck the trend and open in Lincoln Heights.
Gamboge is located on the corner of North Broadway and South Ave 19 just north of Boyle Heights. As you approach the intersection, you can’t miss the Original Carnitas Michoacan signage, but I had trouble locating Gamboge. I circled N. Broadway again and spotted their small sandwich board on the sidewalk.
It was unfortunate that their back patio was not available for dining. Due to the current pandemic restrictions, Gamboge was set up for to-go only operations. Orders are taken outside in the passageway to their patio. Since my order was going to take about 30 minutes to prepare, I tried the Khmer Cold Brew. This is similar to the Vietnamese coffee drink cafe sua da.
Cambodian cuisine is very similar to Vietnamese. Noodles, stews, salads, pastries, marinated grilled meats, and white rice is served with almost every meal. The key to Khmer cooking is the use of kroeung, a paste that contains many aromatic herbs and spices such as lemongrass, ginger, and turmeric.
The beef skewers have a nice char from the grill and are also the protein in the Grilled Lemongrass Beef Sandwich. The sandwich includes a chili jam paste, sliced cucumber, kroeung, mayo mixed with Maggi seasoning, and is topped with housemade papaya slaw. The bread is a crisp bolillo sourced from a local Mexican bakery.
Another item that should appeal to the local community is their grilled coconut corn. It is coated with a coconut sauce instead of sour cream and pays homage to the elote from the nearby street vendors.
Sweet Pickles doesn’t accurately describe this side dish. This is a pickled vegetable dish that nicely complements the umami flavor from the grilled beef and is served with rice. This combination is a typical Cambodian breakfast dish.
If you like bold flavors with umami seasoning, you will likely enjoy food prepared by Gamboge. Each dish is prepared to order and so expect there to be a slight wait before you receive your order. Trust me, the wait is worth it.
Gamboge, 1822 N Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90031; 323.576.2073
gambogela.com