A McDonald’s lunch was a welcome occurrence when I was a child. The food was tasty and consistent. I tried all of their burgers, but the filet-o-fish sandwich dressed in tangy tartar sauce was the one I ate the most. Interestingly, fried fish sandwiches are having their moment in LA, and upstart Little Fish is among the most popular.
When the pandemic hit, three restaurant workers lost their jobs. Bored, the trio, Anna Sonenshein, Forrest Florsheim, and Niki Vahle, began cooking fried fish for their friends at home. Their fried fish sandwich got fire, and they were pumping out upwards of 200 sandwiches daily.
That led to their pop-up concept, and soon, their signature fried fish sandwiches began drawing fans to nearby Melody Wine Bar and McCall’s Meat & Fish and later to Dudley’s Market on the Westside and Sundays at Smorgasburg LA. They also catered and did pop-ups at Checker Hall, where dinner service featured bluefin crudo, seafood skewers, and even wine and beer.
The space adjacent to Dada Market was offered to the trio, and they jumped at the opportunity for a permanent home. They operate from a narrow galley kitchen with a takeout window facing the sidewalk. A “dine-in” experience is sitting on the picnic benches facing the busy corner of Sunset Blvd and Echo Park Ave.
Except for “Happy Hour” on Fridays, Little Fish features breakfast and lunch items with a strong focus on seafood. Breakfast is innovative, with two congee dishes available – fish or vegetarian with mushrooms. Even the breakfast sandwich is made with shrimp sausage. Lunch is more conventional with their famous Fried Fish Sandwich ($17), Tri Tip Sandwich ($19), and, on the weekends, a Shrimp Roll ($13) made with Old Bay mayo, pickled green tomato, and togarashi.
The $17 fish sandwich has a lot going on behind the scenes. The fresh bass is marinated in shio koji and then battered in a mixture of beer, flour, vodka, and fried. It’s placed in Martin’s potato roll, dressed with Kewpie mayo, and topped with sliced Grillo’s pickles and a slice of melted American cheese. The batter is light and crunchy and provides an umami flavor. The fish is tender and flaky.
While I was curious about their vegan Fried Tofu sandwich, I couldn’t bear the thought of eating vegan cheese. Instead, I selected the Tri-Tip Sandwich, which, with horseradish, chili-lime creme, and pickled onion, complements the grilled beef. The ciabatta from Bub & Grandma’s was the perfect bread.
This month, Little Fish received the Michelin Bib Gourmand. The Michelin Guide created the award to recognize restaurants that provide a more straightforward style of cooking and excellent value for the price. For individuals who start up independently, it’s quite an honor to be recognized by the esteemed organization.
According to Eater, Sonenshein and Vahle have signed a new lease. The doors on Melrose Ave should open next summer. In the meantime, you can find them in their Echo Park location.
Little Fish, 1606 W Sunset Blvd, Echo Park; littlefishechopark.com