I recently traveled to our nation’s capital for business. I only had one night out for dinner and I had to make the most of it. Since I was traveling with two others, I had to select a place that would also satisfy my colleagues’ desire for something they wouldn’t mind eating. I selected Poca Madre.
Our hotel was near Reagan National Airport in DC. Since DC proper was only a few miles away, I knew that I had a wealth of restaurants to choose from. Poca Madre is an upscale Mexican restaurant featuring modern Mexican cuisine. I know it seems ludicrous to select Mexican when some of the best Mexican food is found in our own backyard.
Executive Chef Victor Albisu (Del Campo) leveraged his success from Taco Bamba, a fast-casual Mexican restaurant. He opened adjacent Poca Madre to create a menu largely inspired by the food he experienced in Mexico City. Albisu says “where tradition is being turned on its head.”
Hamachi Ceviche is a customer favorite and we didn’t disagree. The hamachi inherited a reddish color from the Agua de Jamaica (hibiscus tea). Hibiscus salt is usually added to the rim of a cocktail and it was interesting to have the hamachi topped with the colorful seasoning. The corn provides a bit more texture and the serrano peppers give the dish a bit of heat.
Cuttlefish is actually not a fish. Instead, it is closely related to squid and octopus. The cuttlefish was sliced into ribbon strips and on the plate, one might guess that it was fettuccine. Shrimp and chorizo topped a bed of coconut broth. Our server explained that the dish is meant to be mixed prior to eating. The coconut broth closely resembled Thai cuisine and the cuttlefish was similar to stir-fried calamari.
Pulpo (octopus) has a mild smoky taste and a nice char to the exterior. It is served on a bed of white mole sauce and drizzled with an ink pepper jam.
Sablefish is better known on the west coast as black cod. Because it has a natural sweet and buttery taste to it, miso is a natural ingredient to pair with it. Albiso made an innovative base of blended miso and maduro (plantains) .
The Halibut Milanesa Torta was not served on a Mexican bolillo. Instead of was served on slider buns with breaded halibut and cabbage. It seemed out of place on this cutting edge menu.
The cocktails were innovative and worthy of this menu.
We finished our meal with an Oaxacan Chocolate Mousse. The taste was definitely dark chocolate and it was denser than mousse, almost like a pudding. It was an excellent way to end our evening.
Poca Madre, 777 I Street NW, Techworld Plaza, Washington, DC 20001
pocamadredc.com
Dave Hebert says
Thanks for the tip on a place here in DC, Bryan! I didn’t realize the Taco Bamba connection — that’s a selling point for me (acknowledging the limitations that might be placed on a taco perspective from the East Coast;-).
Come see us again!
Bryan says
Dave… Thank you for taking the time to read the blog post. I was blown away at Chef Albisu’s creativity.
Best Regards,
Bryan