In Paris, chefs visit the daily markets, procure the best meat and vegetables and decide what they will prepare that evening. It is a ritual about finding the best food available and making the most out of it. Chef Robert Bell of Chez Melange has a similar philosophy as he is on the phone daily trying to source the best ingredients at an affordable price to his customers.
Co-owners Robert Bell and Michael Franks offer a unique monthly series called “Trust the Chef”. Each month, Bell prepares a mystery multi-course meal unbeknownst even to the servers before the evening begins. I consider this to be something like a “pop-up” because it is an opportunity for the chef to create an eclectic multi-course meal. People familiar with Japanese cuisine know this as “omakase” which essentially means “trust the chef”.
On June 11, they held their first “Trust the Chef” event and I was invited to attend. Because I arrived before Sea Change at Chez Melange opened, I visited the bar and selected a wine for the evening. The J Vineyards Estate Pinot from the Russian River appellation. The wine had a great nose with notes of cranberry and orange. That was going to be my wine for the evening.
If Michael Franks wore a Fitbit, he probably would log 20,000 steps per day. He greets people by their first name with a smile and often asks you about things that he remembers about you. Franks is constantly on the move between the front of the house and the kitchen as well as making the rounds between each table in the dining room.
Gazpacho with a grilled shrimp and avocado relish
We began the evening with a gazpacho soup. Diced cucumbers, red onions, tomatoes and red onions were in a light broth topped with a beautifully finished grilled shrimp and an avocado relish. Unlike the classic gazpacho, tomato sauce was not the primary ingredient of the base which made it lighter and ideal to mark the beginning of summer.
Cordon Bleu with ham and mozzarella
I haven’t had cordon bleu in many years. The typical experience of this Swiss offering is half chicken and the other half is ham and cheese. Bell’s version, because he let the quality of the chicken speak for itself, uses less ham and cheese. The chicken breast was full of flavor, moist and fork tender. The outside was breaded in what seemed to be panko and, was not at all oily. The spinach was fresh and it was tossed in a tangy vinaigrette.
Steak Diane “Our Way”
Steak Diane “Our Way” was our third course. Unlike the traditional sirloin steak served whole, Bell opted to use steak tips instead. The steak tips were in a brown sauce made with seasoned pan juices and served on top of a single toast.
Rhubarb Cake with a dollop of whipped cream
For dessert, we were served a slice of cake. Because of the secretive nature of the event, even our server didn’t know what it was. We queried Michael and learned that it was a rhubarb cake topped with a dollop of whipped cream. It had a dense consistency and wasn’t overly sweet. It would pair nicely with a cup of coffee or an after-dinner drink.
The Trust the Chef evening was a lot of fun and at $39, a very good bargain! Lots of people had wine totes and brought in their favorite from home. Lots of friendly chatter and laughter gave the evening a positive vibe. We also felt a sense of satisfaction that some of their produce is from their Seed to Garden Program which benefits the Transition to Independence, a youth special needs program.
Sea Change at Chez Melange, 1611 S. Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach; 310.540.1222
http://www.chezmelange.com/